TIMEPIECES SPECIALIST JOSH HENDIZADEH DELVES INTO THE RICH WATCHMAKING HISTORY OF ‘THE JEWELER OF KINGS’
By Josh Hendizadeh | October 7, 2025
For nearly two centuries, Cartier has stood at the very center of jewelry and watchmaking, creating designs that transcend fashion and become cultural legends. Known as “the jeweler of kings,” Cartier has also shaped horological history, from creating the world’s first purpose-built wristwatches to redefining elegance through the Tank, the iconic watch Louis Cartier designed after the tanks of World War I. Heritage’s upcoming Cartier: Icons of Horology auction captures this legacy with a handpicked selection of watches that highlight the maison’s design genius and enduring appeal. See below for just a few of the standout lots in the October 20 auction.
The Rotonde: Classic Form, Modern Substance
The Rotonde embodies Cartier’s contemporary vision of high watchmaking. Lot 12009 in 18k white gold pairs a deep blue dial with breguet hands and modern 40 mm proportions, while Lot 12022 expands the formula with a silver guilloché dial and practical “Grand Date” display. Together, these watches show how Cartier marries mechanical credibility with an unmistakable sense of panache.
The Santos: A Pioneer in Flight Reimagined in Gold
Created in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos was among the first true wristwatches. Lot 12032 reinterprets this history in full jewelry expression: a midsize octagon case in 18k yellow gold, diamond hour markers, and diamonds set into the bracelet. Complete with its original papers, the watch represents Cartier’s pioneering spirit and its mastery of luxurious design.
The Tank: Enduring Elegance
No article about Cartier timepieces is complete without the Tank, perhaps the most enduring watch design of the 20th century – and, arguably, the most obvious bridge between jewelry and watches for the maison. The Tank, in its infinite forms, should be a mainstay in any collection; just find the one you love! Lot 12042, the Tank Louis, embodies the archetype with its slim gold case, Roman numerals, and blued-steel hands – the blueprint for countless reinterpretations. Alongside it, Lot 12040, the Tank Basculante, offers a playful twist with a reversible steel case that flips to protect the dial, underscoring Cartier’s talent for reimagining its own classics.
What ties these lots together is Cartier’s rare ability to create watches that are at once practical, beautiful, and iconic. A Cartier watch oozes sheer class. Whether through the functional innovation of the Santos, the architectural clarity of the Tank, or the refined presence of the Rotonde, Cartier designs endure because they embody more than mechanics – they embody culture, elegance, and timeless style. With Cartier: Icons of Horology, Heritage reaffirms the maison’s singular place in watchmaking history, offering collectors the chance to own pieces that are not just watches, but chapters of design heritage.
