FOR 120 YEARS, THE KING OF WATCHES HAS BEEN AN ICON OF LUXURY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP, ATTRACTING TITANS OF SPORT, POLITICS AND BUSINESS
By Josh Hendizadeh
Few brands attain a status that goes beyond any single product, person or moment. Rolex is one of the rare exceptions. Known as the Crown both for its iconic logo and its position at the top of the luxury watch world, the brand symbolizes excellence, innovation and timeless appeal. Founded in 1905 and headquartered in Geneva, Rolex remains the most recognizable symbol of luxury on the planet, with yearly revenue surpassing CHF 10 billion and wait times that can stretch from a few months to several years.
The Rolex Daytona, like this Reference 116509 in white gold available in Heritage’s March 24 Contemporary Classics Watches Showcase Auction, is the brand’s most popular model.
But the Rolex brand isn’t just about status symbols; it’s about achievement, precision and enduring value. It’s only fitting, then, that the King of Watches has caught the eyes of world leaders and influential figures throughout history, from the Sultan of Oman, who gifted Rolex watches to his advisors, to the Shah of Iran, who had a unique reference and watch made specifically for him and a handful of others. Then there’s the Rolex Presidential Day-Date, which got its nickname when Lyndon B. Johnson donned the style during his days in the White House; the Rolex Daytona made famous by actor and racing enthusiast Paul Newman; and the Rolex Wimbledon, worn by the likes of Roger Federer as he terrorized his opponents on the tennis court.
This Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ Reference 126711CHNR is available in Heritage’s March 24 Contemporary Classics Watches Showcase Auction. The watch gets its soft drink-inspired nickname from its brown color scheme.
Possibly even more important, Rolex can also signify milestones for the everyday consumer, whether it be a wedding, birthday, anniversary, birth of a child or workplace accomplishment. In fact, we often see Rolex Datejust and Oyster Perpetual dials and case backs with company logos – Domino’s, Coca-Cola, U.S. Steel, Steak and Ale, to name a few. Many times these watches were given to employees who achieved something special within their workplace. In effect, Rolex has cemented itself as the ultimate achievable luxury brand, whether it be for a president, king or pizza chain franchisee.
Rolex’s reputation for durability and precision stems from its use of proprietary materials like 904L Oystersteel, in-house gold and platinum, and scratch-resistant Cerachrom bezels. Their movements, built entirely in-house, feature Parachrom hairsprings for shock and magnetic resistance, exceeding standard chronometer accuracy. Every watch also undergoes extreme testing, from water and pressure resistance to shock simulations. Despite their toughness, Rolex watches remain exceptionally comfortable, thanks to ergonomic bracelets with micro-adjustment systems.
Heritage’s March 24 Contemporary Classics Watches Showcase Auction features several Rolex Daytonas, like this version in rose gold.
This relentless focus on innovation and quality control ensures Rolex timepieces not only last a lifetime but also perform flawlessly for generations. The attention to detail is evident whether it be a $6,000 Oyster Perpetual, a $60,000 Day-Date or a $160,000 gem-set Daytona. Rolex maintains top-tier quality across all of its price points by fully controlling production, using the same 904L Oystersteel and in-house gold and platinum for every model. All movements meet Superlative Chronometer standards, ensuring unmatched precision.
By combining high-precision automation for machining with expert watchmakers handling assembly and finishing, Rolex maximizes efficiency without compromising craftsmanship. Their large-scale production further keeps costs in check, allowing even entry-level models to uphold the same durability, precision and refinement as their most prestigious pieces. And therein lies the difference: Rolex sets itself apart because it believes quality is quality, no matter the price.
This Rolex Submariner ‘Hulk’ Reference 116610LV in stainless steel is available in Heritage’s March 24 Contemporary Classics Watches Showcase Auction.
Rolex’s unwavering commitment to quality not only ensures durability and precision but also contributes to its exceptional performance on the secondary market. Unlike many luxury watches that depreciate over time, Rolex timepieces often retain – or even appreciate in – value, thanks to their in-house manufacturing, high demand and controlled production. Models like the stainless-steel Daytona, Submariner and GMT-Master II frequently trade above retail due to scarcity and desirability. Vintage pieces, such as the Paul Newman Daytona, have shattered records at auction, with Newman’s own watch selling for more than $17 million. Even contemporary models, like the green-dial “Hulk” Submariner and the Tiffany-dial Oyster Perpetual, have surged in value, reinforcing Rolex’s status as both an icon of craftsmanship and a sound investment.
JOSH HENDIZADEH is Consignment Director of Watches & Fine Timepieces at Heritage Auctions. He can be reached at JoshH@ha.com or 310.492.8610.